Wow, this post is SO overdue. For almost a year now, I've been meaning to post about this delightful little vegetarian restaurant we ate at a number of times during our time in Thailand (
Taste From Heaven; see below), because I wanted to give them an
internet shout-out, but I'm only just now getting to it. While I'm at it, though, I may as well do a full Thailand post, so here we go.
We spent a little time in Bangkok, a city we didn't like
at all, and fled from as quickly as we could, and then had to choose between heading north or south--north to the mountains or south to the beaches. My partner is not at all a beach person, and I am only a little bit of a beach person, and anyway we live in Southern California, minutes from the beach in real life, so the decision, for us, was pretty easy: we went north to
Chiang Mai. I have seen enough pictures of gorgeous Thai beaches to know what we were missing, but we were so happy with our decision.
Chiang Mai was a bit cooler, and it was nice to take a break from the heat, and it was just such a relaxing place to hang out for five days. There's lots to do, including renting a scooter and going on a
Wat tour, or scooting out of town for some waterfall or jungle scenery; hiking and rafting excursions; elephant sanctuary tours; and more. We did a lot of these things, but we also just relaxed, had nice dinners, beers in little bars, met fun people, and just generally kicked back after a few weeks of intense travel.
Chiang Mai is a vegetarian/vegan traveler's dream. There were so many restaurants to choose from (most of which were not in our basically
useless Lonely Planet guide, as I've already said, but we were able to find them just by walking around, or spotting them on a scooter adventure around town). The hands down best place we ate (repeatedly) in
Chiang Mai was
Taste From Heaven. This was the only place in Southeast Asia I ever saw the word "vegan" used, so we ate with a little more confidence on that score, and then man, the food was just incredible. And it was an added bonus that some of the proceeds went to support the
Elephant Nature Park.



Aum Vegetarian was one of the only veg restaurants listed in our LP guide that we managed to visit. Most of the others either had crazy hours, were way outside of town, or seemed to no longer exist.
Aum did have kind of crazy hours, but it was just around the corner from our guest house, so we managed to try it. The space was cute, in terms of being a restaurant inside a used book store, and the food was perfectly nice, so this was a good lunch experience:



The
Brick Road Cafe was a place we just walked past in one of our excursions around town. The restaurant was adorable, the food was great, they had a donation box for helping stray dogs find adoptive homes, and there was a sweet little pup passed out under the table next to us, so needless to say, I loved this place:





We stayed at
Gap's House in
Chiang Mai, because it had a great location near the center of the old city, a vegetarian buffet every evening, and a vegetarian-friendly cooking school. Oh, and did I mention that it was really affordable? It's not a four star situation, but it had character to spare, which was exactly what I was looking for. The decor was homey, there were plants, kittens, and dogs everywhere, and the rooms were spotless. The owners were delightful, and they offered free
internet. I absolutely loved this place.




Because everyone we met while we were traveling
insisted that we *had* to take a
cooking class while we were in Thailand, we did. We did it through
Gap's House, because they already advertised that they could make
accommodations for vegetarians, and told us vegan would be no problem. If you ever find yourself in
Chiang Mai, are vegan, and want to take a
cooking class, I can't recommend
Gap's House's class strongly enough. They bent over backwards to help us modify the recipes they were teaching to be vegan, and made us feel super comfortable and welcome while they were doing it. Although I did enjoy this cooking class, my mind wasn't blown the way everyone
else's we talked to was, and in retrospect I wonder whether those people just hadn't cooked much in general, so a cooking class was just like unbelievably wild to them? Don't get me wrong, it was really fun, but we had to choose between the cooking class and visiting the elephant sanctuary, and afterwards I couldn't shake the feeling that we'd made the wrong decision. We did see plenty of elephants throughout our trip, and that combined with everyone gushing about the cooking class experience led to our choice, which seems like a weird one in retrospect if I don't remember all of those things. Not that I didn't enjoy the cooking class, because I really did, but I just wish we could have done both things. Anyway, here are some pictures from the cooking class:




There were more dogs wandering around the cooking class. The owner of Gap House is a huge dog person, in case that isn't clear by now:
Chiang Mai was basically a vegan paradise, and it probably tied with
Siem Reap as out favorite stop on the trip. I won't get to travel out of the country this summer, because I need to stay home and write write write, so it was fun to get to relive this trip a little bit on the first Saturday of my summer "vacation." ;)